Mom's WORLD JOURNAL - Australia SYDNEY G'day mate! We arrived in Sydney on a perfectly cool breezy day! It felt so great after sweating like pigs in the Bali humidity! Sydney is the oldest and largest settlement in Australia housing over 4 million people. It has come a long way from its convict past! The city is so clean and perfect it looks as though Martha Stewart paid a visit. Perhaps the 2000 Olympic Games had something to do with the fresh coat of paint and shining glass buildings. All the same, it is by far the most beautiful big city I have ever experienced. Harbors and arched bridges, bright downtown lights, modern skyscrapers, rich architecture, charming old neighborhoods, quaint shops, stylish restaurants, and amazing parks! Mark and I were really focused on making Australia a time for Max to connect with some kids and play his heart out. Bali was great but not as focused on kid activities as the other countries because his parents are art junkies and Bali is full of it. So our plan was to hit the parks and public areas and let Max make some new friends. Our apartment at The Grantham (http://www.thegrantham.com.au/) in Potts Point is exquisite with a balcony overlooking the Harbor Bridge, the Opera House and Downtown Sydney! I could have thrown a rock at the Navy ships in the harbor down below…the entire Navy fleet consists of only four boats. We arrived on Mark's birthday, December 3rd, but decide to postpone the celebration until the next day since we had "travel hangovers" from our 7-hour flight from Bali. We made the ultimate bad decision and decided to take a short 30-minute nap upon our arrival that lasted 3 hours. For the next several days we found ourselves sleeping until eleven and eating breakfast at lunchtime. Next time we will follow the rules and get on local time straight away. When we finally woke up, we walked around our new neighborhood, Potts Point, a small community with charming refurnished brownstones and restaurants scattered throughout. There is a great story about Potts Point. It appears that several real estate developers had their eye on Potts Point as a major development site back in the 1980's but a lady named Wanda refused to let them tear down the old brick town homes that were in shambles. The developers had already completed the contract when Wanda started a fight to reverse the decision. She fought them all and won! After the decision was announced, Wanda came up missing and was never seen again. Rumor has it that she was murdered and buried under the fresh cement of the only new site developed in Potts Point. We went down some steep stairs, almost got nailed by the passing cars because they drive on the wrong side of the street, and found ourselves in Wooloomooloo, an energetic area on one of the many breezy bays overlooking Sydney. People were skating, shopping, eating and laughing and drinking, a favorite of pastimes here in "Oz". We were so happy to be eavesdropping again in English-speaking territory, not something I readily admit but rather enjoy! Let's face it, it is a tad unnerving when you're naked to be giggled at by a Thai masseuse …for "who knows what". Here in Oz, it will be nice to once again understand the insults and giggles hurled at us in passing so we can defend ourselves. The people in seem genuinely happy and easy, not hassled or hurried, not bitter or gossipy, and laugh loud and easily. "How ya goin'?" is the locals entrée to a great conversation and they love to strike up a good chat. We were so happy to get a bit of home again! Less than 5 hours in town and we had already managed to hit our first pub! Yeah…that's what I'm talkin' about! After the pub we wandered through the Royal Botanical Garden, which is impossible to miss since it encompasses so much of the city. There are signs that read, "Please walk on the grass, smell the flowers and hug a tree. This is your park and is free for you to enjoy". The impressive park hugs the harbor and offers a variety of paths and walkways, open areas for picnicking or a pick-up game of cricket, a wild variety of plants, flowers and trees and a wonderful home for Sydney's many festivals. We walked along a noticed what looked like small black garbage bags hanging on the trees. There were hundreds of them concentrated in one area of the garden. Upon closer inspection, we realized that they were bats! Hundreds of squeaking fruit bats hanging upside down with their fuzzy bodies covered by their leathery wings! Gross! Of course, Max and Mark loved them and took their time admiring the nasty creatures! We continued our walk through the park to downtown Sydney. The stark contrast of architecture, modern corporate structures mixed with charming old hotels and municipal buildings, creates a wonderful city. We walked to Circular Quay, the inner harbor framed by the famous Harbor Bridge. Built in 1923, the two halves of the mighty arch were built out from each shore, supported by cranes. When the bridge was centimeters apart but not yet bolted together, a gale of wind set them swaying. But the bridge survived and the opening took place in 1932. The bridge took 9 years to build and takes 10 years to completely repaint it. For $165 you can walk 1500 meters along the top of the mighty arch and view the harbor. You must wear a special suit that protects you from the wind and fastens you to the bridge, but it looks damn scary! We'll just have to see about that one. Circular Quay is a great place to hang out or catch a ferry to one of the famed beaches. There were people sipping champagne, shopping in the many upscale stores, street musicians working for loose change, and yachts cruising the harbor. The famous Opera House joins the park with Circular Quay and it is magnificent. The Opera House is surrounded with controversy. In 1956 a design competition was held and won by Danish architect Jorn Utzon with plans for a $7 million building. The project soon became a nightmare of cost overruns and construction delays and eventually cost the city of Sydney $102 million which was funded by a lottery. On the other side near the bridge you will find an area called The Rocks. The Rocks was Sydney's first non-Aboriginal settlement made on a rocky spur of land in Sydney Cove. The Rocks soon became the center of maritime and commercial enterprises. Warehouses and stores were built and the area was filled with convicts, officers, freed convicts granted leave, whalers and sailors. Brothels and inns soon followed. Street gangs haunted the area creating havoc and the area began to decline. Redevelopment started in the 1970's and The Rocks area is now a historical tourist area filled with narrow cobbles streets, converted warehouses and coffee shops. Mark and I were very interested in Aboriginal art and visited some galleries. Max was a bit disappointed thinking that "The Rocks" was a place for kids to climb. OOOPS! On our way back from Circular Quay, we passed through Kings Cross, a notorious area offering everything from classy restaurants, hotels and backpacker hostels to strip joints and drag queens. Dreadlocks, piercings, tattoos, and addicts spice up the area. It is seedy yet filled with colorful characters and packed with energy. We walked the trashy main drag and enjoyed the urban mystique and headed back to our hotel in Potts Point answering Max's questions like "Why was that man wearing a skirt?" and "Was that guy drunk?" We'll mark it down as a little Social Studies homework with Max! We spent the next several days in Sydney visiting the local sites and museums. We visited the Powerhouse Museum with their interactive Lego Exhibit. The museum has many interactive displays for children and Max loved it. We then walked to Darling Harbor, a huge waterfront complex on the city center's eastern edge. Loaded with so-so restaurants, shops and tourists, it is still worth a walk around and offers many special events. They had an incredible laser display and music on the water fountains in the harbor and we enjoyed our cocktails in the evening breeze as the Japanese tourists snapped photos by the hundreds. One day we took a ferry to Manly Beach and spent the afternoon playing in the surf and sunning. The ferry ride was about 30-minutes and offered the most fabulous views of Sydney's many coves. Boats of all shapes and sizes dotted the harbors. The homes on the water's edge exquisite and expensive were a treat after viewing the poverty of Nepal. We hopped of the ferry and took a leisurely 15-minute walk to Manly Beach, and watched the local surfers strut their stuff as we devoured some pizza. The big waves crashed against the shore full of surfers and boogie boards so we decided to swim in the calmer waters at Shelly Beach just a short walk to the end of the crescent. We walked along the path on the dramatic rock cliffs and enjoyed the beautiful views and people watching. When we arrived at the protected Shelly Beach, the water was perfect. Max immediately met a friend and struck up a game of catch. Max will strike up a conversation with anyone now, regardless of age or language…a far cry from the shy Max we brought on the trip. It's great! Southern Coast - Australia With a few days in Sydney under our belt, we decided to rent a car for 7 days and tour the southern coast. I just KNEW we were going to die in this rental car trying to navigate Sydney driving on the wrong side of the road! Mark did great with a few polite reminders from me "LOOKOUT! You're on the wrong side again!" in my what-are-you-stupid tone of voice. Hard to have a sense of humor with cars aiming straight at you. Our goal was to drive 2-3 hours each day enjoying the little towns and scenic spots along the way. Max is always ready to go and never minds travel by car…it always amazes me how he can amuse himself for hours just drawing pictures and enjoying the scenery. We were anxious to see kangaroos, koalas and other assorted animals along the way. Kangaroos were a bit hard to spot in the wild, but there were several smashed on the highway. There was one stiff kangaroo victim, "Roo-d Kill" we call it, that still looked good so we thought we would just prop it up by the highway for a few family photos. But, since we didn't have any red boxing gloves for Roo to wear, we thought we would keep looking for the real thing! We drove along the Pacific Coast Highway, most of the time on the left side of the road except when Mark would "forget". The roundabouts are also a bit tricky for us foreigners but much better than traffic lights…wish we had them! The blinkers and the window washers were on the opposite side of the steering wheel. Mark washed the window on every turn thinking it was the blinker for two days straight. We had the cleanest windows in Australia…and proud of it! Bloody Yanks! Kiama The drive was amazing as we drove along the coast with the many coves and green hilly mountains. We stopped for the night in Kiama, signed as the "Tidiest Town in Australia". The small town is pretty and …very tidy! They weren't kidding! You would be hard pressed to find a leaf on the ground not to mention any trash in this beautiful little ocean-side town! I took a run and discovered a man scrubbing his driveway on his hands and knees Cinderella-style. I examined the snow-white driveway…absolutely spotless. Perhaps a better name would be " The Most Anal-Retentive Town in Australia"…too perfect! Kiama is also home of the famous Blowhole, the major attraction. The rock formations near the waters edge create suction for the water periodically sending it shooting out the hole and soaking the tourists. But the Blowhole was quiet due to weather conditions. After working in corporate America for several years, I have seen my fair share of "blowholes" and we decided to grab a bite for dinner! Mark, also known as "O' Great Chatty One", opened a conversation with the table next to us. Turns out they were filming a TV advertisement for a company in England. The young teens were trick riders and hired by a production company to do crazy tricks on horseback. They invited us to the filming and we gladly accepted their offer to meet them the next day. We drove the country roads and found the location. We stayed for a while but the filming was typically behind and we never got to see the trick riding. Max however, was lucky enough to step in a giant fresh horse patty in his sandals for a comedic moment. Berry Berry was our next stop, population 1100. The town dates back to the 1820's and the main street is filled with charm. We even visited the town barber for family haircuts…scary isn't it! Actually the stylist was from Paris and just moved to town so we made Max the guinea pig and had him go first. Huskisson We drove from Berry to Huskisson where we would stay for the night. We rented a very comfortable mobile home in the Caravan Park, a stone-throw from the beach. We stayed at the park because we thought Max would meet some friends. There was evidence of kids everywhere, small shoes scattered about on the porches, beach towels by the dozens hanging on the railings to dry, snorkeling gear and scooters. We immediately set out to the park but there were no kids so we headed to the beach…also no kids. Where were they? We tried everything! I knew Max was disappointed so we built sand castles and hunted for shells, which he always enjoys. We even stayed an extra night hoping that the kids would emerge…no such luck. Kinda spooky, huh? We planned to take advantage of the BBQ and grill some steaks by the beach but the local grocery store closes at 5:30! These people actually prefer time with their families to turning a profit! Imagine that! We ate in a small restaurant that was "BYO", which we would soon learn was the norm in small town Oz. They have Bottle Shops that stay open late and the restaurants charge you a $1.00 "corkage charge" to open it for you. The grocery store is closed but the bottle store is open…at least they have their priorities straight! The next day Mark was hot on the kangaroo trail. We drove around a reserve and tried to spot some joeys…no luck. We drove a little further to a recommended picnic area and there they were! Two hopping kangaroos gentle enough to pet although we were all a little skeptical at first. They are really cute animals, very soft and harmless. We snapped up a bunch of photos. Max loved it! Near the kangaroos a couple was picnicking and suddenly the most incredible birds descended upon their table feasting on their food. One bird hopped on the sandwich he was holding in his hand…no shame. The birds are called Rosellas, and are bright red, green and yellow, and are the prettiest wild birds. We left the reserve and decided to check out the Aboriginal Art Center in Huskisson on the way back. That's when we met Laddie Timberry, an aboriginal man so full of energy and life. He loved sharing the story of his family, bragged about his Mom who was "black as night" and had a tale for each piece of art. He connected with each customer on a personal level giving discounts for curly hair or folks with a big belly like his. Max was impressed by his collection of boomerangs. There are hunting boomerangs for killing kangaroos and birds, returning boomerangs and other assorted varieties. Max begged him to demonstrate and he gladly accepted. We went out back and watched him throw the first one, which landed in the lake. He said, " That there is a fish killin' boomerang" and laughed loudly. He threw the next boomerang that went around several times and landed promptly in his hands. Amazing! He taught Max how to gage the wind and gave him a try. Right in the lake! Laddie cracked up! He told Max, "all the boomerangs were trained to return to him so he could re-sell them," a clever marketing scheme. We bought a hunting boomerang and a boomerang for Max. Laddie also gave us a videotape about his life and the life of the Aboriginal people in Australia. What a character! Batemans Bay Batemans Bay was next and we decided to stay for cocktails and oysters, their specialty! We walked the town enjoying the Christmas music and street artists, shoppers and water views. As we were leaving town Mark commented that we needed gas and then proceeded to pass the only gas station for the next hundred kilometers. I was certain we would run out of gas in the dark wilderness. We sputtered up the hills and you could feel the car struggling. But lucky for us we found one just in time! Whew! Canberra We went on to Canberra, Capitol of Oz…no yellow brick road though, and found a great place to stay. Canberra is really amazing! They say it is not "a city with a park but rather a park with a city" and that is exactly how it appears! The government buildings are tremendously modern and unique sitting high on a hill surrounded by a beautiful lake. Downtown the cool areas are hopping with yuppies and hippies looking for some trendy clothes or munching in the many cafes and pubs. We stayed for two days checking out the city, scoping out the art scene, and firing up the barbie at the hotel. Max actually met a couple of kids at the pool and enjoyed splashing around and playing tennis on the roof of the hotel. FINALLY…some kids for Max to play with…we were thrilled! We spent the next morning in the Reserve looking for animals. A 1-hour drive from Canberra and you will find yourself "In the Bush", as they say! We were greeted "bush-style" by hundreds of giant flies! They stick on your face, buzz loudly and explore your inner ears…have they no shame? Max was completely annoyed and close to tears several times throughout the day. He would whine and whimper, " Mom, these flies are "FREAKING ME OUT" and run around trying to avoid them…no luck. We bought some fly repellent from the gift shop but I must have misread the label…must have been fly food! But we managed to have a great day, all except Max who just couldn't get past the flies, looking for the various animals in the reserve. We saw three Koalas sleeping in the Eucalyptus trees, one with a baby clutching the mothers back. They are SOOO cute! They eat the Eucalyptus leaves that are said to have less nutrition than cardboard, which makes them sleep all day. We also saw a variety of kangaroos and wallabies hanging out under the shade tree in packs of five or more. They looked at us with curiosity and we did the same. Max liked running up to see them hop away! We enjoyed the nature, ponds, and birds…everything but the flies and the bloody heat! Back to the air-conditioned car and Sydney…a 3-hour drive…where we would spend a few more days before driving along the Northern Coast to Brisbane. Northern Coast - Australia Hunter Valley We rented a car and headed out of Sydney's many beautiful suburbs. We winded around mountains and lakes on the wonderful highway carved through the rocks. We were headed to Hunter Valley, the wine country…I'm all about wine sampling! Yeah! We arrived in time for a delicious champagne lunch at Petersons Champagne House, a local favorite, and managed to hit a few wineries before they closed. We stayed in a great Italian villa and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and swim before heading north to Byron Bay. Byron Bay We arrived mid-afternoon and began scouting for a hotel room. We had a little difficulty finding what we wanted for the right price. One room, more like an apartment was a good price but we decided it was "TOO BIG"! I never thought that we would get so used to being crammed in small hotel rooms that we would actually prefer it! What a trip! We settled on a great place, spacious but not too big…right on the ocean! Byron Bay is a funky hippie town plump full of young people dawning tattoos, dreadlocks and body piercing. Plenty of tie-dyed clothing and new age music stores to compliment the yoga and meditation classes. The beach was awesome! The beaches consist of multiple coves strung together to create stunningly dramatic scenes. Byron Bay houses an amazing lighthouse that marks Oz's most easternly point. It sits high on a cliff overlooking several coves with crashing ocean waves below. Surfers abound waiting for the perfect wave to ride to glory. We walked around, ate and shopped the street vendors who were selling fairy wings, chokers and other assorted funky wares. We met a guy named Roy who was playing the Didgeridoo, a native Aboriginal instrument seen throughout Australia. It has a really cool sound and Max loved it. Wherever we went Max picked it up, got a quick lesson from the storeowner, and started blowing. It is not an easy instrument to play, but Max was really getting the hang of it. It demands that you learn how to do circular breathing, use your voice and rhythms. So when Roy invited us for a free group lesson the next day, we gladly accepted. He told us to go to "The Art Factory" and gave us directions. As the name might imply, Mark and I thought we were going to a gallery…we were wrong! In front of the Art Factory was a school bus with wild paintings and graffiti; inside we realized that this is a cool hippie hostile where you can chooses to stay in "The Nunnery" (all girls dorm), the wild busses, Cubes (small dorm rooms), the Family Area, or a huge Tee Pee. The accommodations were cheap and The Art Factory offered a variety of classes like drawing, make your own didgeridoo, didgeridoo lessons, yoga and fire dancing. Max was the first student to arrive and was "just a tad" intimidated when the other students arrived. Dreadlocks abound, pierced everything, one guy had lime green hair! Max sat down in this motley group of twenty-year olds; he was the only kid there. Roy made him feel comfortable and often had him demonstrate for the class. Mark and I had already bought him a didgeridoo for Christmas and had it securely hidden in the trunk of the car. Since we are ALWAYS together, we had to pull quite a stunt to hide it from him. After all, it was from Santa and he "just knew" that Santa would bring him one. He had an answer for everything! I said, "It's too big for Santa to bring" and Max said, "He'll just put it in our attic at home". He wrote Santa a very long letter explaining how he should handle the Didgeridoo…Oh! He also wanted a boomerang! After didgeridoo class Max said, "Is there really a Santa or is it just you and Dad?" I didn't know what to say! He was already nine but I hated to ruin it for him right before Christmas. His face looked as though he already knew…so I decided to blurt out the truth. "Dad and I are Santa". He was stunned and I felt so bad! I explained the whole process of Santa and now he was old enough to understand the "true spirit of Christmas"! We talked a long while and he checked each gift received since he was four…"What about the Lego castle…you or Santa? He asked where I got it, how much it cost and other qualifying questions just to make sure I didn't make a mistake about Santa. Then he said, "I wish I never asked you"! Oh! I hate these growing up moments! Later in the day he said, "What about the Easter Bunny? No! Not him too! Finally at the end of the day he approached me with a very serious face. "Mom, can I ask you a question?"…"Sure you can"…."Am I your real baby?" Now he doubted everything, poor kid, I felt awful! Mark was researching the activities in the area while I was knee-deep in Santa trouble. On the spur of the moment, we decided to go hang gliding off a cliff over the ocean! What! Are we crazy taking a nine-year-old hang gliding? They assured us it was safe and had I been able to think about it probably would have changed my mind! But we had to leave immediately…no time to back out! It was my 39th birthday and it sounded like an exciting way to get over my fear of heights! We drove to Lennox Head, 25-minutes south, and watched the tandem hang gliders until it was our turn. We all went up separately with our own instructor. Max and I went first. The electricity shot through my body as Max's feet left the ground dangling hundreds of feet over the ocean! I was next! You just run and jump…trying not to wet your pants as your feet leave the ground. I was really nervous for the first five minutes but quickly settled in. I could see Max and his instructor sailing around, doing 360s and darting through the air. We both loved it! Mark had to wait for a stronger wind for his weight. We waited almost 2-hours and finally the instructor said, "Look, I think I can get you up but we need to climb to the top of that cliff and jump off". No running start…just jump! I went with him, video and digital camera in hand, this I was not going to miss! He looked nervous and I was definitely worried! Everything went great and I got some great footage! I was still taping when some guy screamed "Watch Out…Brown Snake…Get out of the way"! It was coming right at me, all four feet of it! For those of you who do not know about brown snakes, they are one of the most poisonous snakes in the world. Most people do not survive a bite and you can die in minutes. What exactly was I supposed to do…jump off the cliff or take my chances with the beast? If you try to run sometimes they will chase you! I just stood there and prayed it would head for the bushes, which it did! WHEW!! I ran back to the car freaked out by every stick along the way! I hate it when that happens! Mark landed safely and we shared our adventure stories! A great day! The next morning Max really wanted to look for shells at Broken Head Beach. He asked a restaurant owner where to find the best shells and he was told to go to Broken Head Beach. I could not believe that he was now doing his own research! Bravo, Max! We went to Broken Head and guess what? No shells, only a bunch of naked men and women! It turns out it is a nudist beach! Max was staring at everyone. What is it about kids…they don't even try to be discreet…He was just staring! I explained to him that there is nothing wrong with it and that bodies are all beautiful regardless of shape or size…he was too fascinated with the butts, boobs and winkies to listen. He did manage to at least hide his giggles...me too! I am still not sure if we were at the wrong beach or the restaurant owner was a nut! He's learning all sorts of stuff on this trip! What kind of home schooling is this? Ballina We were supposed to meet our buddies Candy and Andy in Brisbane, 2 hours north of Byron Bay and were on our way when we decided to check in with them. Good thing we did because they had changed their plans and were in, of all places, Ballina, 30-minutes south of Byron Bay! They were visiting relatives and we were invited to share the holidays with them…great! We had met Candy and Andy in the Athens airport in September. They were on their way to Cairo…same with us! We decided to pal around in Cairo and enjoyed them so much we joined them in Luxor. They are a wonderful couple, even though she does call me her surrogate mother…am I that much older? They are in their early twenties, full of energy and traveling the world for nine months. We were both planning to be in Oz for Christmas and decided to hook up! Max absolutely adores them and Andy is his favorite mentor...and a great one at that! Candy is a nut! A version of my former self and we get along famously! We were excited to share the holidays. We called the house where they were staying and heard they were in Byron Bay for the day so we set out looking for them. We walked the beaches looking under every hat and studying every body that passed. We had almost given up when we saw Andy sitting in the grass with his relatives! We decided to check out the pub and wait for Candy who was shocked to see us there…fun! Brisbane Arlie Beach One of our goals in Oz was to make sure Max got plenty of playtimes with kids that spoke English, for the first and last time this year. Although we tried, it was not exactly as we had hoped. Why? Your guess is as good as mine. School had just let out for the summer (December and January) and they were nowhere to be found. Not liked we hoped anyway. So we decided we would put him in camp for a week. When I asked Max if he wanted to go he shouted, "YES!" And when I asked him if he was sure he wouldn't miss me he said in his parental voice, "Mom, I have been spending every minute with you for six months! NO! I am not going to miss you!" He was very eager to go. Mark and I were also ready for adult time! Just imagine, we have all been together 24/7 for the last six months in small hotel rooms…or worse. Central Australia-"The Outback" After exploring the towns and cities of Oz for six weeks, we were ready for a change of scenery and we got it! We grabbed a 3-hour flight to Uluru, to the Ayers Rock Resort. We flew for a short 20 minutes and watched as Sydney abruptly ended and the outback began. There was NOTHING but wilderness! A striking change in scenery…from city lights to rich red dessert soil covered in tall light green clumps of grass and the occasional tree. There was a dirt road, perfectly straight, that went for miles and miles across the sparse Aboriginal land. We learned a lot about the Aboriginal culture in Sydney and were fortunate to be a part of a "walkabout" one evening in Sydney as the Aboriginal Dance Theatre Group recreated their story. They had a 35 meter serpent balloon painted by Aboriginal artists that interacted with the crowd, a truck with live music that followed us throughout the city to the various stages of creation, bursts of red fire, Aboriginals painted like skeletons, dancers on stilts with giant animals floating above them as they weaved in and out of the crowd, and lots of drama! It was REALLY cool! It took a few hours and ended at a stage in front of the Opera House where the "White Man's Law" was introduced to the Aboriginals. It was really powerful and we felt fortunate to be a part of it. Max was scared several times…the skeletons looked evil, there was shouting and fireworks, lots of stimulation. A theatrical buffet! About the Aboriginals The Aboriginals have been on this land for centuries, and are one of the first populations to ever exist on Earth. Their religious beliefs are closely connected with the formation of the land, air, animals and many myths. The stories are passed from generation to generation in a story-telling fashion. The Aboriginals have experienced discrimination with the arrival of the first white settlers, similar to the American Indians. But one of the worst offenses is the story of "The Lost Generation". In the early 1960s, several Aboriginals were giving birth to children of mixed race, part Aboriginal and part Caucasian. The Government decided that these children should be removed from the Aboriginal setting claiming that they would not fit in to their culture. They forcibly removed these children from their mothers and took them to the Children's Home to be raised as white people. They pleaded with the white Australian population to assist the government by adopting these children and bringing them into their homes. As the children grew, they noticed that they did not have the same skin color as the other children in the family and were often told that their parents died or were sick and unable to care for them. Imagine giving birth to a beautiful baby only to have it ripped from your arms and taken away! The practice went on well into the 1980s! The mothers devoted their days to looking for their children, mourning and fighting the government. In the 1980s, the children of the "Lost Generation" discovered the truth and began searching for their parents, culture and unraveling their unthinkable past. There are stories of rape and abuse, beatings and torture. One story involves three girls who learned the truth when they were twelve years old and escaped from the Children's Home. Stranded in the Outback, they followed a 1400 km rabbit fence built to keep the rabbits out of the area. Their journey is unforgettable. Such small children making their way across this vast land. Their story has been documented and will soon be made into a movie to share with the world. This genocide has left a terrible mark on this population. We spent six weeks in the populated areas of Australia and saw perhaps three black people during our visit. Many have gambling, alcohol and drug problems while others will never recover from losing their heritage as children. The Aboriginals were recently given back the rights to the land that includes Uluru, or as the white people renamed it, Ayers Rock. Uluru is the largest monolithic rock in the world and holds great meaning for the Aboriginals. It is a sacred sight containing evidence of the many myths that comprise their religion and laws, sacred burial grounds and the primary water source. It was turned in to a National Park prior to being returned to the Aboriginals. The government added poles and ropes to the rock so it could be climbed for a great view and become a major tourist attraction. This practice is still in place but climbing the rock is considered very disrespectful to the Aboriginals. There are terrible mysterious stories that happened to several people who climbed the sacred site, death by falling, sudden fatal illness when they arrived back at their hotel, or sick for no apparent reason. Each month the Department of Tourism received rocks in the mail that were taken from the site by tourists whose luck has suddenly gone bad. The Aboriginal are very artistic and spiritual people. They use natural paints created from the minerals and vegetation and natural brushes. They create the images by using dots and symbols that create a story. Each artist is given only one story to tell, handed down by their ancestors, and must only paint that story. They also paint on bark using a crosshatched painting style that reveals the inside of the animal they are painting, x-ray style. Mark and I have become very fond of the Aboriginal art and bought a few items to remind us of this amazing population. Uluru- "Ayers Rock We looked out the airplane window and gazed at the beautiful Uluru, or Ayers Rock, created 600 million years ago. It is absolutely breathtaking! A giant rock surrounded by green bushes and light green grass, gently blowing in the breeze. Amazing shades of blazing red radiate from the rock, clashing with the surrounding scenery. Max was awestruck! As we stepped off the plane we were attacked by a blast of heat, a reminder that we were in the dessert! It is 107 degrees today. We came prepared with the essential hats, sunscreen, bug spray and water. It is recommended that you drink a liter of water each hour to remain hydrated…I bet you don't even have to pee afterwards! We arrived mid-afternoon and decided to drive to Ayers Rock to check it out. We are staying three nights and four days, probably twice as much time as you need but we had limited flight options. We decided to "stretch" out the sites and "just chill" in between. We were planning to just look at the rock, but as we were leaving a park ranger told us we had to wait. Turns out that the Aboriginals were conducting "Men's' Business", which meant that they could not be viewed by women and the road was too close to their meeting site. I was dying to find out what they were up to, just like when my brothers did the "Boys Only" sign in our playhouse growing up! We were to wait until we were told we could leave and wait we did…20-minutes…30-minutes…40-minutes…so we decided we might as well stay for the sunset. We had heard how the rock changes color at various times of the day and that sunset is really amazing! While we enjoyed the changing scenery as the sun set, we were a bit under whelmed. One of the many hazards to world travel is managing expectations. After seeing hundreds of seriously spectacular sites in a short period of time, a spectacular site may seem unfairly…"not so spectacular". The next day we drove 50 km to The Olga's, much larger than Ayers Rock, this rock formation actually consists of 36 large rocks and is quite a site. We decided to take a short 20-minute walk on a path that leads you closer to the rocks. Max said, "I feel like I am on Mars with all these red rocks". The heat is harsh and within five minutes you feel a bit irritated. Max kept asking the famed "How much longer?" and "Now, how much longer? We completed our walk and immediately jumped in the pool upon arrival at our hotel, which was quite warm but refreshing! Max met a few friends and swam for hours heavily dowsed in sunscreen. Mark and I read our books, watched Max and generally relaxed which is quite difficult when you get used to the travel pace we have been keeping. We have grown accustomed to our fast-paced travel and miss it when it is quiet…how will we ever adjust when our trip is over? We hit the sunrise at Ayers Rock the next day, walked a few paths and looked at the original Aboriginal cave paintings. We toured the Aboriginal Cultural Center that includes films, art, and photos depicting the Aboriginal culture. It was much more pleasant in the semi-cool morning and by 8:00 we had completed our day at the Rock…back for a swim. Mark and Max decided to take a helicopter ride for a Birdseye view of the outback. They loved it! Max even got to steer! I decided to stay back in the air-conditioned room and get caught up on the journal that was weeks behind! We leave the outback in the morning, it was well worth the trip although a bit too much time. It is really one of the most dramatic landscapes we have seen and it sheds light on the Aboriginal culture and plight. Back to Sydney for three days and on to New Zealand!